Last time I took this road was in 1983 with my then boyfriend, Warwick. That time I didn't see anything either because it was Night. We were in a helluva hurry to get to San Simeon to visit Hearst's Castle which I was totally fixated on at the time so I wasn't too fussed about missing out.
But this time I really wanted to see it. I got quite a shock when we arrived at The River Inn & saw postcards of Spectacular Views of artfully placed salt & pepper coloured rocks amidst swirling seas & Meaningful Sunsets. Here I am in the 'Heartbeat of Big Sur' shop making friends with Bath Products & Dolls.
Apart from the Creepy fog, it's also Cold. In fact, ever since I sat in an Arctic Movie Theatre watching 'Harry Potter' a couple of days ago where I actually felt that I'd moved into Hogwarts during a blizzard , I've been cold. Marge's car says it's 64 degrees which, in my dim memory of Fahrenheit tells me it's late Autumn, or Fall, since I'm in America. In fact, as I sit here in the darkened River Inn motel room in a light singlet & footless tights, I'm Slightly Shivering.
In honour of the cold, Marge is wearing a woolen hat that she later purchased from the Craft Shop next to The River Inn. She is also holding a biography of a local artist that she actually bought & finished as it was rather Slender Reading.
Since I was a child, when the picture above of Kim Novak in her Big Sur Living Room was featured in a magazine , I've had a whole fantasy about Big Sur. There was another photo of Kim sitting up in a bubble bath in her bathroom which jutted out into the sea.
I was transformed.
I immediately convinced myself that in fact, I looked v. like Kim, as well as my other idol, Hayley Mills & would one day live in Big Sur, or it's Australian equivalent.
Oddly enough, that never happened. And to tell the truth, I'm Quite Glad. After visiting the place this time I realised that maybe the view out of Kim's windows for much of the year was Pure Fog.